Carmel cottage

I came across this cottage while in Carmel, California and immediately thought it was the perfect little beach cottage. A field of lavender for a front yard, climbing roses up a brick chimney, an American flag waving by the front door, wide casement windows to hear the ocean - what more could one ask for?

Paris vacation - day 7

Rainy day 7 was spent primarily at the Louvre. Overwhelming, immense, claustrophobically crowded, and over the top in every way possible, who can visit Paris without a visit to the Louvre?

The apartments of Napoleon III were luckily open and were awe inducing even after the splendors of Fountainbleu. The Grand Salon, seen above, reminded me of a hotel lobby in scale and how I would have loved to have had a drink there!

It was fascinating to see the furniture of Madame Recamier (including HER recamier) as well as numerous portraits of her including the famous one by David. The museum is so immense it is difficult to even follow the maps given upon entering under the Pei Pyramid but treasures abound around every corner.  While the highlights of the museum such as the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, the Venus de Milo, etc., draw huge and overwhelming crowds, other parts of the museum are quieter and cafes are to be found in all sorts of corners for museum breaks.

I think the biggest surprise upon seeing many of the paintings I studied back in art history school is that many of the paintings by David and others of that time period are LIFE SIZE if not larger!  'The Consecration of the Emporer Napoleon' must be at least 30feet long and 20feet high. Vertically challenged Napoleon never looked so big.

The stairwells are so large that you would think you were in Grand Central or some other train station. They provide excellent meeting points however and many have cafes or small gift shops.

Rounding the corner on my escape, I was shocked to see both of Michelangelo's slaves with no one paying any attention to them. It was a joy to be able to study them closely without being jostled about.

'Winged Victory' flies over a palatial set of stairs, straight out of Funny Face; The only thing missing was Fred Astaire!  A quick run over to the Marais for last minute shopping (I'm keeping Mariage Freres in business) before a quiet night at home and packing rounds out this magical trip. I hope you've enjoyed my daily recaps and find something useful for your own trip to the city of lights!

Paris vacation - day 4

After the excitement of day 3, Day 4 was spent a little slower and more organic.  After sleeping in we wandered over to the Place de la Bastille for the antique brocante market.  Above you see the last remains of the dreaded Bastille.

The brocante market is a moving event throughout the city where antique vendors come from around the world to display their wares. It was the perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon. Expect to pay about 10 euro for entrance.

 A late lunch in a cafe on the Place des Vosges was a great way to relax and people watch.

 The Place des Vosges is one of the most beautiful spots in the city. While the townhouses surrounding the square are all very similar, each is slightly different proving you dont' have to have perfect symmetry to have balance.

Wandering around the Marais is full of surprises. The oldest existing part of the city you never know what you'll stumble upon. Ancient buildings are filled with new and inspiring art and clothing galleries mingled with the cities most fascinating museums located in stunning hotel particuleurs.

Make sure to stop into the church of St Paul St Louis to see the stunning Delacroix paintings in the side chapels.

Even after a gloomy, rainy day, Paris will surprise you with a fantastic evening and an even more spectacular sunset!

Paris Vacation - day 3

Day 3 was meant to be one of the trip's highlights and did not disappoint. I scheduled a Pariscityvision tour of both Vaux le Vicomte and Fountainbleau - a little out of the city.

 For the most part I can't recommend these bus tours highly enough; 'leave the driving to us' and enjoy your trip!  Vaux le Vicomte is an amazing 17th century chateau which led Louis XIV to create the Versailles we have today (and imprisonment for its' owner who dared build a greater palace than the sun king!)

 The interiors mostly have been brought back to this early creation but glimpses of the future styles to come still remain as well.  We were lucky with the weather and the chateau was astounding.

 On the way out of the chateau don't miss the large carriage museum and lunch at the cafe located in the stables; very charming.

 Next on the trip was Fountainbleau, country home to French Kings and later emporers for more than 7 centuries.

Fountainbleau will take your breathe away by sheer size and the number of styles included. Really though it is an architectural 'hot mess' that is delightful and magnificent.

 Napolean left the largest mark on the chateau perhaps because he was the last person to make significant changes. Above you see about 1/3 of a corridor showing his family portraits (big family!).

 Napolean's camp bed has been set up within a tented room - so chic!

 Napolean had a throne room set up within the apartments of king Louis XVI. cheeky.....

Which was set up next to Marie Antoinette's bedroom.  I will never understand the flow of these 18th century palaces and their enfilades. How do you live here? bedroom attached to bathroom attached to throne room.

The tour ends at the Hotel Regina across from the Louvre and I suggest you end the day with a drink in their elegant bar as I did.

After dinner at L'Ilot Vache on the Ile St Louis (one of my favorite retaurants I find myself at time and again), I was thankful to climb the million steps up to my own Paris Pied a terre just across the street. Long but fabulous days!

Paris vacation - first days

Dear Reader, I again find myself blessfully and blissfully on vacation in Paris.  The first two days have been spent organically, wandering around the city and reacquainting myself with different charming nooks.

I spent a fair part of the afternoon wandering around the Luxembourg gardens after a delicious lunch at one of my favorite restaurants that I come to again and again; Chez Fernand on the Rue Christine.

I particularly loved these stone urns planted with simple geraniums in the gardens. Also not to be missed is the Chagall exhibit at the nearby Musee Luxembourg.

A walk past the wonderful Invalides convinced me I need to visit inside sometime this trip!

No post on Paris is complete without the ubiquitous shot of the Eiffel Tower.

On the left above is the Hotel Crillon (the clean part of the building) which is sadly closed for renovations. We caught them loading the last of the contents into trucks(famously auctioned off last month at staggering prices).

Paris is full of beautiful doorways but the one above, in a very Parisian turquoise, boasts newly cleaned brass hardware. While I love the patina of age something is just so beautiful about frequently and lovingly maintained old hardware.

After a long day of wandering around the city nothing is better than returning to your own little apartment in the city seen above (rented of course) with copious amounts of stinky cheeses and a still-warm baguette from the local boulangerie. I am again staying in a cozy apartment on the well-located Ile St. Louis which I can't recommend more highly; just say no to hotels!