I've always loved secret gardens. You know the type: surrounded by high walls allowing only glimpses of whats inside by a stray vine over the top, neatly clipped hedges peeping over or stately trees rising above.
Even in winter they keep you guessing as to what's inside their private oasis. File this one under dream house features -those beautiful urns don't hurt this wall in Kalorama either.
I hope you're enjoying the second series of Downton Abbey! Click the image to enlarge. Hilarious! From the pages of GQ, Feb. 2012
While in Paris I tracked down the Diptyque store with no problem as the address is located on each of their wonderful candles, 34 Boulevard St-Germain. While there, I suffered from more than a little sticker shock though. The candles, which we all know aren't inexpensive here in the United States, cost more Euro than US dollars such as at bluemercury where I normally purchase them, let alone the exchange rate. Anyone have any clue as to why? I left without a souvenir and spent my money stocking up at Mariage Freres instead, which is 1/2 the price in Paris when compared to the US retailers!
Just taking a little blogging breather for the week, to those inquiring minds who wanted to know. Enjoying good books, working on projects and hibernating from the cold- it has been over 5 years of blogging afterall and we deserve a break once in awhile!
Earlier last year I was reading online that Heathcote, the Edwin Lutyens designed country house, had come up for sale. Designed for businessman John Hemingway in 1906, the house was an unusual one for Lutyens, laying outside of the arts and crafts realm in which he practiced.
The most surprising fact to me is that the house is not a large estate but rather a suburban villa - a precursor to the modern day mcmansion perhaps? (JUST KIDDING!) As you can see in the aerial view above and site plan below, the house has a substantial sized lot but is suburban in character. 
This is not a criticism from me in the least but an observation (I would never criticize a Lutyens project!). Normally with a house of this grand scale and design it has a working estate to go along.
In his unusual design, Lutyens played with the notions of classical architecture and in particular the work of Palladio. The main facade faces the back garden, seen in the pictures above, but the street facing elevation is very similar.
The 3 story house is symmetrical in plan and elevation and built of a local yellow rusticated stone with dressed grey stone quoining and Doric columns with a red clay tile roof.
While the house is classical in design, Lutyens stuck to his arts & crafts routes by sourcing these local materials.
Of the project Lutyens wrote "This house was for a very rich man who could not spend money: until he met me! in an ultra suburban locality"
After visits to the Hemingways' former house, Lutyens was less than impressed with their sense of style and was therefore relieved when they asked him to help with the interiors of Heathcote and as you can see they turned out beautifully.
The seller is actually a company who has had the house from the 1950s and has supposedly taken very good care of it but I haven't seen any contemporary interior photographs. What a spectacular house this would be to buy or work on!
All historic photos from Country Life magazine via the book Edwin Lutyens Country Houses by Gavin Stamp. Drawings and aerial photograph from great Great Buildings.
Going through my photos from Paris, I came across this image I hadn't posted of the worn treads on the stairs to my Paris pied-à-terre. Don't you feel that in America this worn marble would have been replaced decades ago while the Parisians (indeed, most Europeans) let things lay for a charming affect. New isn't always better!
Or rather 2 doorways. Everyone has seen myriad photos of painted Parisian doorways but these 2 caught my eye. The relatively simple one above, squeezed behind the Opera comique, caught my eye. I love the older painted transom while the new door has been left natural; mostly though I was drawn to the oval window above the door.
This is an arrangement to be seen all over the city, notice the beautiful storefront above showing a similar gently arched doorway with oval window above. Baroque architecture lives on even in small things.
Across the river from my apartment on the Ile St Louis is the oldest area of Paris, the Marais. One of the oldest and most charming of the structures there is the Hôtel de Sens, a late medieval palace from 1475 which could easily fill in for Cinderella's castle.
The garden side faces a main street and even in the blustery winter weather was a place you want to spend an afternoon. The palace now houses the Forney arts library since 1961. This organization dates from the late 19th century and was created to promote artistic craftsmanship among the city's workers and is naturally open to the public.
As I mentioned, while in Paris I stayed in an apartment instead of a hotel. I can't recommend this move highly enough!
The courtyard had this great old hosebib for horses to drink from as the building was built after the island was known for its cows (I assume!).
The stairs were open and featured this great Victorian tiled floor on the ground level. While not climate controlled, you were shielded from the elements by great casement windows.
The banister on the main level was ornate and featured beautiful marble floors. Notice how worn the stone treads are!
The third floor was simpler as these were less grand apartments with terra cotta tile and a less ornate banister.
Also, rather than marble treads, here they were wood.
This was the doorway to my apartment. It may look normal, but was barely 6'-0" tall (a more typical door height would be 7'-0"). Thankfully I'm shorter than that and didn't have to worry about whacking my head!
The apartment was recently renovated and featured some beautiful updated french furnishings in light grey tones with moss green accents which fit so well with the city.
Behind the sitting area was a small dining table where I would write my daily blog recaps!
The modern kitchen came from Ikea I believe and had everything I needed for small meals and snacks. This is where the ingenius trash can was housed which I canNOT find in the US for my own apartment! Does anyone have any ideas? Being the top floor, a skylight flooded the apartment with light even on the grayest of days.
My bedroom was small and cozy but all that was needed for the stay. Sconces took up less room than table lamps on nightstands which were cantilevered from the wall.
My bedroom faced the courtyard of one of the many hotel particuleurs for which the island is known and ring the island with river views.
The detail of the surrounding walls of the courtyard was really beautiful. On your visit to Paris, or any city for that matter, I would recommend an apartment rental from one of the many companies which offer them. You won't regret it, particularly in Paris!
A friend traveling sent me some photos from the Sacramento airport of public art so whimsical it had to be shared.
Brian Goggin created 2 sculptures entitled "Samson" that surround columns in the SMF baggage claim area. The 700 pieces of hard case luggage seem to balance precariously, 23 feet high, on luggage carts bearing the piece's name.
And don't forget local building codes -the fire alarm is still intact......in the midst of the luggage!
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