Thursday, October 15, 2009

Versailles: Hall of Mirrors

Were you wondering when I would get to the good stuff from Versailles? I think I've kept you waiting long enough! The most famous room at Versailles is undoubtedly the Hall of Mirrors. I've enabled clicking on my photos so you can zoom into the details.
I wasn't sure what to expect. I've seen photographs of it my entire life but I was totally blown away.Blown away not just by the sumptuousness of every detail: the gilding, the beautiful mirror, the huge crowds, but mainly by the beautiful light.The room is immensely long, 239.5' to be exact, and that doesn't include the adjoining Salon of War and the Salon of Peace on either end.
The light comes from the tall french doors facing the gardens and is reflected into the 17 mirror clad archways opposite. All of the crystal, highly polished marble and gilding don't hurt either!
At the time of the halls construction in 1678, mirrors were one of the most expensive items to own. Meant as a gathering place at the palace, the mirrors were not just a decorative item but also meant to impress all those waiting for a glimpse of the king.
I was impressed.
As you can see, so was everyone else! Everyone was jockeying for elbow room to take pictures!
The hall was designed by the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart for Louis XIV; would you expect anything less from either man?
Beautiful candelabras and statues line the hallway, reflected ten fold by the mirror.
The views over the gardens are spectacular: I could have spent all day long in this one room.
I kept pinching myself: am I really here?
Towards the end of my visit in this great room, I started to pay closer attention to the mirror.
Does it look ok to you? Hazy maybe?
Not just old, but there is GRAFFITI on the mirror! At first I was outraged!!!
Then I started to read what was scratched onto the glass. Most of the inscriptions left behind are from 100-200 years ago. Historical graffiti!
Somehow that made it much more acceptable to me, is that wrong? This last image has been the screensaver on my home computer since I came back. History refleccts history!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

The first Frick

This past weekend in Pennsylvania, I was happy to show some of my friends around one of my favorite places from childhood, Clayton House: the original Frick mansion in Pittsburgh.
The grounds house a really fine art museum, amazing antique car & carriage museum (recently renovated), an orchid filled conservatory, a playhouse turned giftshop (complete with bowling alley), a delicious cafe and wonderful grounds, not to mention a beautiful victorian home.Many things on the property bare the name Clayton. The name is derived from Henry CLAY Frick: The 'ton' relates to the word town.Part of the carriagehouse.The playhouse was built for the children and is the size of a normal house. It held rooms for the children's toys as well as a bowling alley! Lucky kids! It now holds the giftshop: this is where you will start your tour.The conservatory lies next door.Across the walkway is an old caretakers cottage which now houses a pretty great restaurant. We didn't get a chance to eat here but I highly recommend it based on past experiences.
This stone house is now part of the property but wasn't owned by the Fricks till after Helen's Death in the 1980s when it was bought by the foundation for the administration offices. The main house was renovated after the Frick's purchase of a typical Victorian which they renovated into a gracious family home. The only original piece left was the porte cochere seen here below an amazing stained glass & copper bay.A closeup of the port cochere columns.A shot of the backdoor to end the tour. If you find yourself in Pittsburgh, don't forget to visit, the interiors are spectacular!

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Western PA

Three house tours in three days. This past weekend I spent 'camping' with some friends in Western Pennsylvania on the grounds of Fallingwater.
We also visited nearby Kentuck Knob, another Frank Lloyd Wright house, which was totally amazing! Seen here is Cucumber Falls, a really charming waterfall near the two houses.Having roots from the area may bias me, but I think Western Pennsylvania in the fall is the most beautiful place on earth. Above, a charming church in Ohiopyle.
We spent another day exploring my hometown, Pittsburgh: The original Frick mansion, Clayton house and my old stomping grounds while in college.The field behind our house was a meadow filled with wildflowers and views over the surrounding hills. Each night we had these amazing sunsets which I tried to capture here in photographs to no avail.I say 'cabin' loosely, it was actually a house from the 1960s which used to belong to the lawyers of the Kaufmann Family.
Look forward to some posts on these amazing places in the upcoming weeks!

Friday, October 9, 2009

Meridian Hill Park

After the interest shown in my post about the old yellow mansion, I thought I would share some more pictures of Meridian Hill Park and a little of its' history.Also known as 'Malcolm X Park', the park was officially named Meridian Hill because it was on the exact longitude of the original District of Columbia milestone marker. This land has had many purposes over the years, including being home to the campus of George Washington University (known as Columbian college at the time).
The park is large, 14 acres, and lies between 15th & 16th streets NW running north and south and W & Euclid streets in Columbia Heights, not far from Dupont circle. Dc is known for some of it's art deco apartment buildings, including this one on 16th street facing the park.Many grand old mansions line this part of town which mostly now house embassies and organization headquarters.The lucky ones are really kept up well and retain a lot of their original details, such as this canopy on one embassy bordering the park.I've always loved this community group building which looks a lot like an English country manor plopped down in the city!
The concrete work is made up of very small patterns of stones or aggregate -a very rough texture popular in the 1930s at the time of the parks inception.Love these obelisks too!
This fine bronze statue of Joan of Arc from 1922 is a copy of one done by Paul Dubois. It was donated by the 'Ladies of France in Exile in New York' (isn't that a bit odd -who were they and how did it end up in DC I wonder?).
This marble statue of 'Serenity' by Jose Clara has seen better days but retains her serene composure.
The park is planned formally with a series of fountains and rows of trees surrounding a lawn on the upper half of the park and terraced water gardens on the lower half (seen at the top of the post).
On lucky days the fountains play and drown out the sound of cars rushing by. An oasis in the middle of urban DC!

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Chapel at Versailles

My favorite space in Versailles was the Chapel. Completed by the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart in 1710 under king Louis XIV, this was the last of 5 chapels built.
As the chapel was built later than much of the palace, it is bordering on the Neoclassical design that was becoming popular in the 18th century. It proved to not be popular with many of the courtiers of the time because it towered over the very horizontal lines of Versailles as you see above.If you take the tour of private Versailles, this will be your final stop. Other visitors only get to admire the chapel from the doorway. The balcony above the door was where the highest royals and the King would attend services.The ceiling mural was recently restored and is truly breathtaking (and not just because you're staring straight above you!).
The stonework was left ungilded as France was beginning to experience financial problems. If this is cheap construction, sign me up: Still totally amazing! If you've seen the movie 'Marie Antoinette' (one of my favorites), you're familiar with the space and how large it is! Left empty; it almost feels intimate without items for scale.
If lucky, you'll catch one of the concerts held weekly as the space has excellent acoustics!