Palladio's Villa Rotonda - IN PERSON

When broadly asked what my favorite building is I have always answered "The Villa Rotonda". While in Venice I finally got to see it in person and I can honestly say my answer has not changed (phew)!

The most famous of structures by the most famous of architects, Andrea Palladio, the villa is by definition one of the most perfect examples of classicism; Symmetry, scale, and proportion all reign here.

While we've all seen so many pictures of the house I still found a lot of surprises around each corner.

The first surprise was that the house creates a strong hilltop axis with the family chapel on the other side of the road from the entry drive. Who knew?

 A barn and a retaining wall flank the sloped drive up to the house from the road while a small classical chapel is perched on the hillside opposite - making the visibility of the road disappear from the house much like in a British 'haha'. No, I didn't make a joke, click the link to see what a Haha is!

There is some debate about the architect of the chapel; whether it was Palladio who died in 1580 and never saw completion of the villa or the architect Vincenzo Scamozzi who finished the project.  I would argue for Palladio because such an important axial connection to the house must have been an early decision.

Here are the gates to the driveway and the hoards of German tourists who crowded all my photos!

The barn on the right side of the drive has a wonderful rear facade of its own by Scamozzi -notice the tables and chairs in the loggia? A lovely spot.

 The end of the barn facing the villa has a lovely composition rather than a blank facade.  The small gift shop is just behind here.

The house is completely symmetrical in that all 4 sides are faced with a grand set of stairs to a temple front. Each is only slightly different but who is to know since you can't view each side simultaneously.

 Sitting on a hilltop the house is visible from all sides so by that reasoning it couldn't have a back facade.

The surprise to me was just HOW visible it is to the many neighbors who view the house. It's really in the middle of the Vicenza suburbs and not nestled into the country as so many photos would lead one to believe.

The gardens aren't much to write home about, I suppose the owners realize everyone is visiting for the architecture, but this rear corner with the best views of the surroundings has a nice spot to rest and this lovely old well.

 All 4 sides may be nearly identical but the views and approach of each is completely different.

The stairs have locked storage beneath them but one is able to walk underneath the porches -creating lovely vistas.

 The brick house is completely covered in stucco but the basement alcoves have limestone flooring.

Light reaches basement windows covered by the entry porches via these ingenious light wells covered with bars on the floor of each porch. This keeps the tunnels below from becoming too dark as well.

 I loved seeing the brickwork of the vaulted ceilings below the porches.

Above is a view of the basement as seen from below the porch.  What a lovely spot this would be for a nighttime party! Originally these would have been service spaces.

 But enough of the outside which we all know so well. Should we go in?

Don't forget to wipe your boots of mud.......oh wait that rusted out centuries ago....... Hope you had your tetanus shot.

 Looking out from the house you get a rather cheeky view (there is your haha joke.....).

The interiors are contentious;  Palladio may never have planned for such ornate interiors but owners had different ideas. The quality of the paintings is mediocre at best inside what is probably the best house in the world.

The interior hall below the dome has tromple l'oeil architectural elements while every other surface is practically covered with frescoes.  The purist architect in me wishes the architecture could speak for itself - one barely notices the carved stone details for all of the painted 'noise'. I do love these terrazzo floors though. Some decoration is great but it's easy to have too much. What was it Chanel said?

Here in Palladio's section of the villa from his Quattro Libri you can sense the space without the decoration.  All aspects of the design here are mathematically precise per Palladio's rules of architecture defined in his book.

 I mean sure it's great but........

 The ceilings of the 4 principal corner rooms feature ornate plaster coves with central frescoes.

The owners are in residence although 3 of the 4 rooms are left more open for the weekly admittance of tourists.

The living room is used by the family and has modern comfortable furniture. Notice the Villa Rotonda cookie jar on the coffee table? I have one as well, see blog post on it HERE from 10 years ago! Seeing that in-situ was an exciting moment for me.

Of course I had to have my picture taken sitting on the front steps!  I hope you learned a little more about the world's most famous house from my visit!

Powis Castle gardens, Wales

In the wealth of saved emails from penpal Neil, Powis Castle stands out as a remarkable building site. The medieval castle dates from the 13th century but has been improved and built upon until the present time. The gardens however are the real thing to see here.

Taking advantage of the hilltop site, the baroque gardens original to the 17th century, terrace down the hillside creating dramatic views of the castle in Italian style.  They were extensively restored by Violet Herbert, Countess of Powis, beginning in 1911 and becoming her life's work until her death by car crash in 1929.

Although a castle is essentially a fortress, a military stronghold, the multiple rebuilding of the structure and addition of expansive windows have created a palace over time.

I'm sure the original occupants wouldn't recognize their early home 800 years later.

Perhaps the courtyard entrance below which remains the most unchanged would appear familiar.

One can see why such an old fortress would be lived in for centuries -the views looking out over the surrounding Wales countryside are astounding.

And the views up towards the castle are no less impressive.

I love the way they shape all of the Yews -many dating from the 18th century which explains their size.

The last architect to work on the house in the early 20th century was George Bodley, primarily known as an ecclesiastic architect, who was a big proponent for a return to 14th century Gothic architecture.

Love the potted urns in the Aedicule above. (gotta break out the big words when you know them!)

The orangery at the base of the hill leads out onto the lower garden. From this angle it looks like part of the castle, making it look like a skyscraper.

Nothing beats an English style garden in the summer in my book.

I would love to know what this big purple bush is if anyone knows?

Lovely wisteria in bloom.

The house is a treasure house as well, containing the usual 17th & 18th century masterpieces in art and furniture as well as artifacts from Bengal, India collected by the Clive family. Pictures are not allowed of these as they are still owned by the family while the house has been in the possession of the Trust since 1952.

One can stay in a large house on the grounds called the Bothy as well as another smaller cottage off the kitchen gardens.

I know this was one of Neil's favorite houses to visit in GB and suspect it would be for you as well!
Read more about Powis Castle and Garden HERE at the National Trust's website.  Worth a look at the pictures, it is super charming!

Exploring the Luxembourg Gardens

Another favorite spot in Paris is the Luxembourg Gardens, named after the famed palace they surround. While the history of the palace may be rather gruesome today the gardens are anything but as they act as the backyard to many Parisians.

The Palace has held the French Parliament since the early 19th century. Completed in 1645 by architect Salomon de Brosse for the mother of Louis XIII, the regent Marie de' Medici, later in the mid 18th century becoming an art museum.  Name it and this palace has hosted the use: private home, art museum, prison, parliament - talk about adaptive reuse!

One of the most famous things in the garden is the Medici Fountain, built elsewhere on the grounds in 1630 but moved closer to the palace in the 1860s when roads were routed through the gardens. It's a popular shady spot on a hot day.

 My favorite view in the gardens may be this statue of Narcissus with the Pantheon over his shoulder.

Nothing is better in nice weather to join all of Paris in a relaxing day spent with a book and/or friends in the sun. All of the lawn furniture is painted a particularly attractive shade of green (to which I must find a match!) and softdrinks, icecream, and wine (naturally) are sold by small kiosks. One can even rent toy boats to race in the round reflecting pool!

Given the signs however I suppose the gardens aren't always as relaxing  (Even the danger signs are beautiful).

While the back facade facing the gardens is the most well known the front face aligning with the Rue de Tournon is really an architectural tour de force.  Also check out the great shopping in the few blocks north of the palace along the Rue de Tournon leading up to the Boulevard St Germain -all of the shops you want to visit inside gorgeous historic hotel particuleurs to ogle including  Astair de Villatte, Bonpoint, Cire Trudon, and most surprisingly the French office and chic shop of David Hicks!